Category Archives: Kyrgyzstan

In CA Once Again

I’m currently in Bishkek, reconnecting with some of my bazaar contacts at Dordoi and planning a short trip to Osh and Jalalabad (and possibly Naryn and Batken) in the coming weeks. One of my informants has an uncle who wanted … Continue reading

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A Lady and Fellows with Bellows

On March 9, I was lucky enough to catch the last performance of the Osh Philarmonia’s special International Women’s Day concert, which featured traditional Kyrgyz songs accompanied by accordions. When I was living in Kyrgyzstan in 1999-2000 studying Kyrgyz folk … Continue reading

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Money Lending in Jalal-Abad

As a break from Osh, I ventured to the the city of Jalal-Abad for the last few days, where I have been spending my days with money lenders in the local bazaar. I wanted to come to Jalal-Abad to get … Continue reading

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Camera Shy

I will be the first to admit that I am camera shy when doing fieldwork. By camera shy, I don’t mean that I feel uncomfortable getting in front of a lens, but rather that I hesitate to pull out my … Continue reading

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Holiday in Kara-Suu

Well, it isn’t a holiday for me. Today is International Women’s Day (Дорогие женщины, с праздником!), and I observed it by heading to the bazaar after congratulating the landlady at the guesthouse as well as the cooks and waitresses at … Continue reading

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Backwater Cosmopolitan

Before this trip, the only time I had spent in Osh were the five days around the elections in October of last year. Although I have been reading about this city for over a decade, only now am I getting … Continue reading

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Sweating Out Fieldwork

After my last post, logistical matters kept me in Bishkek for a few more days, where I crashed with friends KR and CVM, enjoying their hospitality and homemade pizzas. I arrived in Osh three days ago and am staying at … Continue reading

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Library Woes

The National Library of the Kyrgyz Republic is located less than ten minutes by foot from my apartment here in Bishkek. It’s a building with an imposing staircase and a marble façade. When I moved into my flat I was … Continue reading

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Trade Along the Heroin Road

For the purposes of my research, I have chosen to concentrate on the exchange of household goods and clothing on the transnational routes of Central Asia instead of the (at first blush) more sexy markets of arms and narcotics. Although … Continue reading

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Exchange with Africa

Although the idea of the Silk Road is a persistent metaphor for the deep historical roots of globalization some recent scholarship, such as Enseng Ho’s The Graves of Tarim, show that that cultural and economic exchange between Asia and Africa … Continue reading

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